Spain generally has some amazing areas for climbing, with good quality
rock and bolted multi-pitch routes. Areas such as the Costa Blanca
and Mallorca are famous for their good quality routes, but the Costa
Daurada and many areas in Cataluña are also excellent
and definitely worth a visit.
If
you live in Barcelona, or are taking a holiday in the city, there
are several places less than one hour's drive from the city that
offer a good day's climbing on a selection of grades. With Spain's
good climate it's worth escaping England's winter to take the opportunity
to climb in warmer weather, and all you need is a rope and quickdraws
with almost all of Spain's routes being bolted.
Costa Daurada
Climbing in the Costa Daurada offers superb sports climbing with
many of the crags facing towards the south, meaning that you can
climb in autumn and spring. In the summer there are crags sheltered
by trees, such as Arbolí, where it's also possible
to climb on a hot sunny day.
Climbing areas close to Barcelona
For very good climbing, on bolted routes, and with a good variety
of grades visit Garraf. Garraf is approximately 40 minutes
drive from Barcelona due south west and there are two easily accessible crags: Penya
Ginesta and Pic de Martell. There is a good selection
of grades here and a great view out over the sea from Penya Ginesta. You can also get
to Garraf by train, although you would be left with a long uphill
walk to the crag. The video below was taken at Penya Ginesta, Garraf.
Another one of my favourites is El Facu, although don't go
when it's too hot, it's south facing. It's a small crag but offers
some very nice technical climbing. El Facu is a little further than
Garraf, past Sitges just off the road to Vilafranca del Penedes.
Climbing 6a at Garraf.
For a hot day try Subirats, this is a more sheltered crag
and will be in the shade by the afternoon. Subirats is situated in
one of the biggest Cava producing areas of Cataluña and has
grades ranging from 3 to 7a.
Arbolí nearer to Siurana is also excellent on a sunny
day as the foot of the crag, at least, is in the shade.
For detailed information on the local climbing around
Barcelona download Rockfax's mini-guide to Barcelona published
in November 2005 and written by Chris Craggs and Alan James.
It cost's £4.50 and is excellent value for money. The
guide covers several crags including those mentioned above:
Montserrat is about 50 minutes from Barcelona and you can reach it by car or by train. It's a high rocky outcrop containing a lifetime of climbing routes which range from sporty bolted single pitch routes to classical multi pitch routes of between 200 - 300 metres. In total there are over 1,700 climbing routes here.
The rock is a conglomerate therefore it's difficult to place your own gear, occasionally you can find a friend placement or small nut. Most routes are bolted but many of the multi-pitch routes have old bolts with long run outs on the easier pitches.
Having said that, Montserrat is one of my favourite places to climb. You can climb all year in sun or shade, and a lot of the routes have been rebolted in recent years, which of course doesn't show in the guidebooks.
If you're trying Montserrat for the first time I can recommend the Gorros area (pictured left).
To reach Montserrat by train, take the train from Plaza España, Line R5 to Manresa (that's the train station not the metro station). Buy tickets from the booth in front of Line R5.
The train takes you to the foot of Montserrat and from there you have the choice of taking a cable car (Aeri) or a cog railway (Cremallera Funicular). Depending on which of these options you take you need to get off at different stops and buy the correct ticket at Plaza España. The cable car is the first stop – stay on the train until the second Montserrat stop for the cog railway.
When you arrive at the monastery, there is a second cog railway which you need to take to reach some of the climbing areas. If you have a car, you can reach other areas of Montserrat lower down, such as nice sporty routes close to El Bruc.
Climbing in Siurana
A
little further is Siurana, approximately 1½
hour's drive from Barcelona. Siurana is one of the best places
to climb in the area with many of the climbing routes set within
a deep gorge giving spectacular views over the river below and
surrounding countryside. There are over 200 routes here!
There
are two refuges in the Siurana area that offer cheap accommodation
(in the region of €7 per night) including a meal and breakfast.
Bring your own sleeping bag.
Unfortunately Rockfax's guide to climbing in the Costa Daurada is now out of print, it included the Siurana area. You can still see details of the book online here and may be able to find a secondhand copy somewhere: Rockfax's
Costa Daurada Climbing Guide
Please note that a 60 metre rope is very useful in Spain
where many of the routes are too long for a 50 metre rope. Even climbing
with a 60 metre rope we've almost run out of rope when lowering off,
so remember to check the height of routes before you climb.
Barcelona City Centre Climbing & Bouldering
There are a few well-known climbing and bouldering areas within
the city that are known to the locals, such as:
the perimeter wall of Parc Guell – a tricky traverse
which is a great place to hone your technical skills on fingery
moves. There is the top wall, and if you walk down the hill through the bushes, you will come to the lower wall – much easier.
the tunnel in Parc de Montjuïc – La Fuixarda
has been completely taken over by climbers, so much so that the
road was closed to traffic some time ago and the tunnel walls are
now covered with climbing holds as well as graffiti. It's well-lit
so you can climb into the night and in the rain.
In 2010 the wall at La Fuixarda (not the tunnel) was closed due to a rock fall.
Indoor Climbing Walls
Barcelona also has a growing number
of indoor walls (it rains here some times too!). Two walls
that are very central and easy to get to by metro are:
Gymrock, Concepción Arenal
151-159, Barcelona
Nearest Metro is Congrés, Line 5.
Climbat, Calle Moianés
19-21, Barcelona 08014.
Tel: +34 93 432 9908
info@climbat.com www.climbat.com
Nearest metro is Plaza España.